Sunday, October 17, 2010

Tell Paula, Rogue says to stop talking shit about Witch Hazel!

I deal with all manner of crazy and stupid on a daily basis.  I can usually forgive most people for their behaviour because I figure these people forgot to take their pills, or they’re just having a tuff day.   However, if your rude without provocation and believe everything Paula Begoun says then I probably can’t forgive you.  Neither can I help you.  But generally speaking those two behaviours tend to be married.
Why?
 

A woman walks into my cosmetic area.  She walks past me, does not respond when I say “hello, how are you?”.  She grabs what she's looking for and triumphantly goes to the cash to check out.  She reluctantly hands over the product over to me so I can ring it through.  Thats when I look at the product and see it’s made for someone with acne and the woman standing before me doesn’t have a blemish on her face, nor any scars to indicate she has overcome any skin issue.  Now here is a typical interaction with this type of customer. 
 

“Do you suffer from acne?” I say
 

“I get the odd pimple, so yes I have acne” she says
 

“How often do you break out?”
 

“Mostly once a month”
 

“How many at a given time?”
 

“Maybe one or two” she says sounding a little annoyed at my questions.
 

“It doesn’t sound like you have acne, and I’m afraid the product you have chosen is for an acne prone skin type.  May I recommend some other options that might suit you better?”
 

“Um, no!  I’m fine with this, I just told you I get pimples and this is for that” she says to me as if talking to a simpleton.
 

“It kinda sounds like you have hormonal breakouts. Do you always seem to get them on your chin and near your nose?”
 

“...yes they are typically there” she looks a little surprised that I would have any useable knowledge about skin.  But, then she remembers that she has been taught not to trust a word I say.    In fact, I’m at this very moment trying to sell her something else. “I don’t need any help okay, I’m fine with this". 
 

“Okay but in stead of buying this cream you could just use a spot treatment for the areas effected, and continue with the moisturizer you’re using now.  I’m just afraid this is too much and a little harsh to be applying it all over” I say with as much caution and compassion as I can muster for someone looking at me with such contempt.
 

“Well actually this product was recommended to me” she says in a snotty tone.
 

“Ohh by a dermatologist?” Now I’m thinking maybe I was wrong, maybe she does have complicated acne and she’s in the care of an amazing dermatologist and thats why I don’t see any signs of that skin condition.
 

“No, I got the recommendation from a really good book” she says with a gleam in her eyes that says to me she thinks she knows something I don’t.  However I do, and I know that no measure of information, skin analysis, years of experience or pleading to go to a dermatologist will help.  She’s read “Don’t go to the Cosmetics Counter without me” and she thinks that she has all the information she needs. 
 

“Would you like a bag for that?” and I let it go because I won’t win.  She looks at me with a subtle grin because she thinks she has beaten the lying cosmetician and saved herself the mumbo jumbo.  I don’t have the heart to tell her she’s already swallowed a big heaping spoonful.
 


Now I'm not saying you need to believe or listen to everything I say. Nor am I saying that everything that Paula says is crap.  But if you think that only one woman has all the knowledge needed to navigate the murky cosmetic waters, then you're nuts, misinformed, or worse you’re stupid.   Always listen, always ask, and never assume.  One person can never have all the answers.  More over if someone is preaching that cosmeticians are only trying to up-sell you, then ask yourself what Paula is trying to sell?  She sells books, and her own cosmetic line.  Hello!? That seems like a conflict of interest if you ask me.                                                        
Sure I sell things too, but I frequently recommend products that I don't even have in my store if I think they are better for the person I'm advising.  And in the end thats all it is; advice.  And I promise you the day I start my own cosmetic line is the day I stop advising people about other products. 
 

I fully understand that there are some greedy, commission crazed cosmeticians out there.  I’ve worked with some, and as a customer I’ve been accosted by their slimy and forceful sales tactics.   “Gee you look tired, do you even use an eye cream?” One woman at a department store brashly said to me. I said I did use a good one and the tired look was from being.... wait for it....tired!  An $80 eye cream wont help that, but a good nights sleep will. One man had the balls to tell my beautiful mother that she needed some anti-aging cream.  She came back with “I think you need glasses or some tact, probably both”. This kind of pushy sales person attitude is sometimes part of that persons persona or enforced by the company/brand they work for.
And I gotta tell ya working with these types of people sucks too.  Because you spend half the time repairing the damage they inflict on the customers.  I’ve met these unhappy customers when I’m processing their return.  They’re pissed off because they have bought something they don’t need. Sometimes its because the cosmetician didn’t care enough to help this person out, or they just wanted to make a sale.  And this creates the stereotype that all cosmeticians are stupid greedy bitches. It makes me nuts, because for every one of these commission crazed twits there are five amazingly knowledgeable and kind cosmeticians who actually love what they do and want to help you!
 

So I don't blame people who would gravitate to a woman like Paula Begoun.  She's a harbour in the cosmetic sea of possible truths and beautiful lies.  But I have some issues with many of her recommendations and her advice.  For example whenever she's on CityLine (lifestyle TV show) here in Toronto she always recommends Neutrogena.  Skin Deep: Cosmetic Safety Database (non-profit) rates products for toxic properties using a 0-10 rating system.  Neutrogena avarages a 7.  I will not say more than that.
Some reparable natural and organic skin care brands are not even on her website or books..  Brands like Neal's Yard and Pangea both have an average of 3 on Skin Deep.  These brands have no parabens and other questionable ingredients.  
And lastly I was amazed when I read that the Cosmetic Cop thinks Witch Hazel is an irritant?  Maybe one in million is allergic and will have a reaction.  But Witch Hazel is nearly harmless, however its uses are many.  It can help to heal bruises, insect bites, and shrinks blood vessels back to normal size.  And it's amazing for acne.   I have a lot of personal experience with this ingredient.   When I fell on ice and fractured my ankle I soaked my bandages in Witch Hazel and it really took the bruising down a lot.  And frankly my skin would be a pimply mess if it weren't for my Thayer's Witch Hazel and Cucumber Toner.  Seriously it's my secret weapon.

But Paula Begoun is not wrong all the time. I have seen on the Cosmetic Cop website a lot of good information about products.  She tells her readers about false promises and great finds, and some of what she says I whole heartedly agree with.  And I don't doubt for a second that someone has cruised this blog and seen something I have talked about and thought I was crazy for recommending it.  Remember that Lash Explosion Mascara I rated as being horrible, well I know some customers who love it and even a colleague of mine thinks its "awesome" and I value her opinions and thoughts on the products.  
So what am I trying to say? The lesson I am trying to teach here is; Please don’t look to just one source.  Look and ask anywhere and everyone.  And for god’s sake, if you don’t want to listen to a cosmetician for whatever reason, at least be cordial and nice to them and not rude.  Bad vibes and mean behavior is no way to treat a total stranger.  Unless they unceremoniously tell you that you're in need of a face lift and it so happens this new cream will fix the ugly on your face.  Then be as rude as you like, hell I would!  

But seriously, if you don’t trust a cosmetician or esthetician than go see a dermatologist and an allergist and get diagnosed.  Knowing your skin type and what you're allergic too will help you big time!
 

Now go moisturize and be merry!

Skin Deep: Cosmetic Safety Databasehttp://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/
Cosmetic Cop: http://www.cosmeticscop.com/index.aspx
Thayer's: http://www.thayers.com/?fa=home




4 comments:

  1. Great post! Must try the witch hazel toner you talk about!

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  2. Can you recommend a few brands in the neutrogena price range?? Please

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  3. I am generally a fan of Paula, but, as you say, making one person your guru is a bad idea in general, no matter what their supposed area of expertise. Anyway, the irony in finding this posting was that tonight, despite how long ago you wrote it, I was kind of curious what Paula thought about Witch Hazel, and went a'Googlin. I have recently started using is again as a toner/astringent prior to applying my BHA. I changed up my skin care routine one evening on a whim, and did not have anything else in the house to use as a toner. It seemed fine, so I continued. The whole process has done wonders for my skin, I look great, younger and fewer breakouts. As someone who has used witch hazel off and on for 35 years I was shocked to see Paula's review of it, I often check her opinions on ingredients, but I guess I just never thought to look before. As an RN, I found her evaluation of it not only vague, but confusing. The satatement said that it contained tannin, which is an irritant, and the way most witch hazel is processed removes the tannin, which as the active astringent, renders it useless. Huh? Maybe I misunderstood but it seemed to make no sense really. I love Paula's simplifiction approach to the cosmetics industry, and her ability to help folks weed out what they actually might need to put on their face instead of some hyped up panacea. I also have found some real winners in her products, her hydroquinone gel was the only one of it's kind that finally lightened my melasma a few years ago. But just as with any product line, several of them have been misses, just did not work for me. I really do like her Beautypedia website because it is not just her opinion, but the users opinions, including on her own products, and believe me, they are not always popular with the actual users. That does take some balls on her part to throw out there, I am not sure if it was present in it's current form when this post was written. My main issue with her, as you infer here, is seemingly an ongoing overreaction to the concept of an irritant. It reminds me of my patients who read every single side effect on their prescription handout from the pharmacy and freak out. Basically anything that has ever happened to anyone on that drug will be found in the handouts, the chances of most actually happening are slim, and as medical professionals, we generally know the common ones to look for. Just as a good cosmetologist would be familiar with common cosmetic irritatants. Thank you for the space to express and respond, neat blog you have here.

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  4. I read your blog frequently and I just thought I’d say keep up the amazing work!
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